Troubleshooting the Hi-Def NES kit
Main board LED:
It should not be on solid, ever. That indicates a major fault.
It should cycle slowly from bright to dim if it sees an hdmi cord is plugged in to a TV. If it is full
bright with an off flash every half second, hdmi cord or TV is not recognized or cord is not plugged
in all the way or worn out or bad quality or the main board connector is dirty.
Grey or Black screen or no repsonse:
Try the simple stuff first!
Does it still work through original composite and/or rf output of the nes (no hdmi cord plugged in to
the kit)? If yes this eliminates the possible issues below skip to next section, if no try these:
Test with a known good power supply, those 2/3 in one cheap adapters are known to cause issues.
Use a different hdmi cord.
Try a different TV.
Clean your games and console cart connector if you can.
Check for shorts between pins on the interposers and solder blobs on chip pins, even if I soldered
them! No, not all pins will have continuity from chip to nes mobo, will post a list when i get it.
Be sure the ribbon cables are all the way in, they shouldn’t be easy to pull out, take them out, check
the contacts and reset them, this may help.
Do the cpu/ppu chips feel secure in their sockets? I’ve had some feel less than tight so I bent the
pins outward and forced them back in to the socket and they finally made good connection and worked
great afterward. This mostly affected red rev kits with the round pin sockets for the cpu/ppu.
Do you have 5v on the nes?
If none of that helps you need to put the nes back together without the kit and make sure it still
works. There was a step in the guide to check this after desoldering the cpu/ppu and soldering in the
sockets, did you do this?
PAL ppu rev issues:
RP2c07 and RP2c07-0 ppus have some glitches or noise in the picture. Adding a 100nf/.1uF capacitor
between pin 18 on the ppu and GND might be a temporary fix.
The 2c07A-0 rev ppu doesn’t seem to have any issues with the kit.
Kevtris is going to look in to this issue and may be able to fix it with a firmware upgrade.
You heard a pop or console does not turn on:
You might check 5v to gnd with a meter, if you have a short it’s likely u10 was somehow overloaded.
You can check r35, either side, to any gnd, like where the 6″ lead is soldered to gnd. If it has
continuity to gnd, remove r35 and recheck both pads to gnd, if the inner pad does not have gnd it may
still operate by using the 7805 to power everyhting again, but fist we should check other voltage
regulators on the hi-def board for shorts to gnd. U10 = 5V, U11 = 3.3V, U7 = 1.2V, U8 = 2.5V, U9 is
1.8V. Only one leg of the small regs should show gnd. U11 can be checked at L7 either side should not
Grey screen on boot when using a switcher or tv/monitor EDID isn’t working correctly.
Turn off EDID and try again or hook console directly up to tv/monitor.
Known problematic switcher: Mediabridge HS1-1×3 – Cheapo little 3 port i bought at frys
Video output turns yellow:
It’s lost it’s ‘blessing,’ check r36, it may have been knocked off during installation of the
No PAL video modes on monitor:
The hi def isn’t getting the CPU clock, since that’s how it determines PAL from NTSC.
Pin 31 on the CPU interposer, that’s M2 btw, goes to pin 14 of U1, which comes out pin 10 of U1, then
goes to pin 29 of the connector.
Check if your flex cable is shorting since 30 is ground, so a 29-30 short would cause that (30 is the
end pin by pin 20 of the cpu).
ALso, pin 11 of U1 is ground and the signal comes out of pin 10, so look for a short there as well.
Mapper specific issues:
Mapper 163 has some garbage on some screens, specifically there is apparently some funkyness that this
chinese mapper uses on title screens that the hdmi nes doesnt like at all. It’s only really used on 2
games that people are interested in: the pokemon yellow NES port and the FF7 demake.
Kevtris is aware and may get back to it for a future firmware update fix.